The Little Harbour Town of Longos, Paxos
It’s pouring with rain (again) in London.
Today feels like a day to cosy up and treat yourself. If there were ever a day to skip the veggies and go right to dessert, this is it.
So I thought I’d start with my favourite little Greek village on the olive covered island of Paxos.
Longos. Also knows as Loggos and Logos, for reasons we never quite grasped.
But what’s in a name?
It’s a charming little pastel painted fishing village in a turquoise cove on the east of Paxos.
It’s not very big, but there are as many restaurants as there are residents.
Along with a few shops, where you can pick up the essentials.
You should start the day at Taxidi Bar for breakfast where the waves break.
Spiro will whip up poached eggs and stacks of buttery toast, served with iced cappuccinos, while you watch the boats come and go, breathing in the fresh sea air.
There’s just no better start to the day.
Come out of the bar and turn left up the hill, walking away from the village.
It’s a gentle climb with spectacular views.
Drink in the blues glittering through the olive branches.
Keep left and you’ll come to a path that slips down towards a bay.
A simple beach with crystal clear water and nothing but the sound of the waves shuffling pebbles.
Just what we were hoping for!
NB: I cannot recommend watershoes enough. Yes they’re hideous, but your poor feet will thank me on all those pebbly beaches!
Now don’t get me wrong, the beach is lovely.
But you should know by now that I had an ulterior motive for choosing this particular spot.
And it has nothing to do with this view.
This beach just so happens to be home to the best taverna on the island.
Yep, these two truffle pigs struck gold.
Taverna Bouloukos sits just back from the beach and serves the freshest, homemade Greek food you’ll find on any island.
The owner Spiros proudly grows his own veg, collects eggs from his happy hens and makes everything from scratch in his little beach-side restaurant.
Try the calimari, the whitebait, the Greek salad (of course), the taramasalata (a world away from the pink stuff back home), the tzatziki (with enough garlic to stop a horse), the saganaki cheese (I mean when can you go wrong with deep fried cheese?!)
But whatever you do, have the fried courgettes.
Home grown, sliced into the thinnest ribbons, fried in a light batter and snowed under with parmesan.
Fried courgettes are one of my (many) weaknesses, and these are the best I’ve ever had.
Miss them at your peril!
Lily meanwhile devoured plate after plate of flame grilled veggies.
Lovingly cooked by the kitchen with no salt, and served by the chef personally.
There’s no such thing as “child friendly” restaurants in Greece, because they can’t imagine being anything other than extraordinarily friendly to a child! Everywhere is baby friendly by default.
So we got thoroughly stuck in.
And after sampling a fair amount of Spiros’ homemade ice cream, we retreated back to our camp.
To snooze it all off.
And play in the shallows for the rest of the afternoon.
If I were to die and go to heaven, I’m pretty sure it would just be that very day, on repeat.
Once the sun cools a little, you’ve showered and slathered yourself in aftersun, you should head back into Longos.
Stroll along the front with its bobbing boats.
Make your way over to Taxidi (which will now be packed!) again, but squeeze into the little ally beside the bakery.
Keep going and you’ll find the most heavenly secret spot.
Le Rocher Cafe.
A front row seat to the best show in town.
No shoes, no makeup, no problem.
There’s absolutely nothing pretentious about Paxos.
It’s a place to truly relax and be yourself.
A short stroll back into the village will lead you to Taverna Vasilis.
A family run restaurant and an island favourite.
Wonderful local food.
Served with real warmth and cracking local plonk.
The perfect place to see out the rest of the day and watch the stars come to life.
Such a little fishing village with so much to offer!
Longos is quite the catch.
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