Modern Art & Mozart, Salzburg

What to do in Salzburg when it rains?

Grab an umbrella and march yourself up The Mönchsberg-Mountain to the Museum der Moderne.

(Or take the lift, if you prefer.)

Here you’ll be treated to the most fantastic view of the old town.

And an even more fantastic lunch.

M32 is the most wonderful restaurant, hidden on one of the floors of the modern art museum.

Grab a table by the window (you can book ahead if you like) or a spot on the terrace come summer.

With an ever changing menu of seasonal favourites, local specialities and good ol’ classics, you could go every day and still never get bored.

And of course sides really don’t come any better than this view…

Keen to avoid the never ending deluge of icy rain, we explored every inch of the museum.

Bee necklace

Red jumper // Comfiest leather pants

Black boots // Black tote

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Filled with all sorts of wacky and wonderful creations!


My real reason for wanting to visit however, was the James Turrell Skyspace in the garden.

I’ve written about him before, here and here.

His Skyspaces are dotted all over the world (evident from the two blog posts above!) and no two are the same. What they do have in common is that each is a room, painted white with benches around the edges.

The rooms focus around a hole in the roof, framing the sky above.

LED lights in the room change colour which in turn changes your perception of the sky.

They are the most incredible spaces, if you get the chance to visit one then you really must.

Though of course a rainy, snowy day in January isn’t really the best time.

What you want is a clear blue sky (to watch it change colour) or big fluffy clouds passing through the frame.

A good excuse to return, I suppose!

After a brief walk around Salzburg we gave in to the weather and returned home to the Schloss.

Cold, damp and ready to snuggle up beside the fire.

Making ourselves very much at home in the library.

And opting to do the rest of our sightseeing from home!

After a lazy afternoon reading and snoozing (in equal measure) we dressed for an early supper in Salzburg.

Mum letting the setting go to her head just a little…

Lace dress // Black boots 

Earrings // Pearls (bespoke)

Military coat

Star necklace // Cashmere dress

Prada bag // Black boots

If you only get one night in Salzburg, and therefore one supper, I know just the place.

Nestled away behind the most beautiful church square, you’ll find St.Peter Stiftskeller.

The oldest restaurant in the world, dating back to 803.

Not a typo.

Book a table downstairs and the most charming of staff with tuck you in and bring course after course with a flurry!

Stained tartar of salmon & trout, with a beetroot emulsion and pickled cucumber.

Saddle of wild boar with pepper crust, romanesco, Dalken and a juniper sauce. For mum.

Lemon and leek risotto with duck for me.

All polished off with the pièce de résistance, 

The Salzburger Nockerl.

A cross between a very light sort of soufflé and a soft meringue, cooked low and slow in the oven and served with berry cream.

A deliciously chewy top, hiding a cloud like dream beneath it.

Topped with snow to represent Salzburg’s snowy peaks.

Proper Austrian food, before a thoroughly Austrian evening.

With a performance of Mozart’s Requiem, by the Austrian Philharmonic Orchestra accompanied by the Equine Ballet, in the Felsenreitschule.

Built in 1693 in an old quarry and used for the archbishop to house and show off his horses, the Felsenreitschule now plays host to some of the most incredible performances in the world. Thanks to Max Reinhardt’s vision.

I wish I could share every moment with you, transfer the sheer awesomeness of the performance in this space.

We sat, shoulder to shoulder, sobbing throughout most of it! So perhaps it’s best that I can’t!

We did manage a couple of video clips to share just a taste…

The performance was all part of Mozart Week, celebrated every year on the week of Mozart’s birth.

If you have a soft spot for classical music then you have to go next year.

Keep an eye on the website for details and book tickets as far in advance as you can. The process is somewhat confusing and there are so many events to choose from.

My advice?

Go for something performed in the Felsenreitschuleand and certainly give the requiem a go, it is the most beautifully heartbreaking piece.

When you’re done, don’t go race home just yet.

Everyone pours out of the hall and into the bars, after all it would be rude not to raise a glass or two to Mozart’s birthday!

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