After a couple of days in the pretty seaside town of Portofino, we were ready to head inland for a little wine and a great deal of pizza.
We piled up the cars and set off on the next leg of our roadtrip – coasting down to Tuscany.
We drove two BMWs for the duration of our roadtrip –
A convertible 6 series which my chap and I drove. We’d then all pile into it for visiting little towns, listening to music with the roof down so Julia and I could sing along without offending the boys’ ears (too much!), popping out to lunch. There’s actually a surprising amount of room for 4 people and such a treat to have the roof down in the sunshine.
Along with a BMW X5 for Thomas and Julia to drive the longer distances. You know Americans, they do love a beast of a car! By the end of the trip Julia was determined never to let it go!
So in our little convoy we sped down the coast in search of Tuscany. Stopping off for lunch in Cinque Terre along the way.
Cinque Terre is a national park made up of 5 towns, all perched on the Italian cliffs, all painted in pretty pastel colours, paved with cobbled streets, with unbeatable views over the ocean.
We started in Manarola.
There are no cars allowed in the towns, so you park a little while up the hill and continue on sandal.
Walking in from above, the towns seem like any other little Italian villages. Quaint, tight-knit, bursting with colour.
It’s only when you get down to the sea that you can sea their true beauty!
You walk out along the cliff side and look back at the postcard perfect little town.
But keep going, it gets better!
Walk a little further away and climb up as high as you can get.
You’ll be rewarded with the very best view of Manarola.
Just the spot to take your pictures to take home to mum!
Or Mom, as the case may be.
Backless embroidered dress (30% off – go go go!)
Rockstud sandals // Sunglasses
Blue band hat // Striped button dress // Pearl sandals (similar)
Here you can also glimpse the Cinque Terre Lover’s Walk, a cliff path linking all of the 5 towns.
We’d have walked from top to bottom if we could, but it’s closed. It’s crumbling into the sea and they’re trying to decide how/whether to fix it.
In the mean time you can hike a trail through the mountains, or hop on the train which passes through every few minutes.
After a little while the clouds cleared and we were treated to a proper view of Manarola…
…glowing in all her glory beside the glittering sea.
If you want a real insider’s tip, you’ll get the very finest and quietest view of the town from the cliff-side cemetery.
No need to go inside, just skirt along the wall and look back. Here you can take your time and enjoy the view all to yourselves.
And on the way down you’ll find a pretty little wine bar!
Keen to see more of Cinque Terre, we jumped on a train headed along the coast.
Flying along the cliff’s edge with waves crashing below.
In the blink of an eye we were in Riomaggiore.
Just in time for gelato on the rocks.
Riomaggiore is very small, very pretty and utterly heaving with people!
This is actually the case with all of the five towns. Tourism is big business and it does feel somewhat like Disney Land. People push and shove their way through the streets and you have to delicately remove selfie sticks from your ear on occasion.
The towns are beautiful, but totally infested with people just like us who somehow thought that they were somewhat undiscovered.
Having had our fill of elbows in ribs and ice-cream drips down our backs, my chap and I threw in the towel. We copped out and hauled up at a pretty little restaurant with white umbrellas.
I can’t remember the name but if you go, you’ll see it!
We ordered the best of the sea, a few nibbles and a bowl of pasta with fresh pesto.
Tucking in with a nice glass of wine while the others bravely carried on, determined to get their snaps.
Here we could look out over the sea, watch the sailboats and the gulls as they passed.
After lunch we caught up with the other’s who were ready to get out!
We hopped on the train, back into the cars and raced off towards the mainland. Using our truffle noses as our compass!
If you’re keen to visit Cinque Terre, do it as early or late in the season as possible. Go very early in the morning, buy a train ticket (about 12euros) and do the lot. Get out to the sea, that’s where you’ll find the views you want.
But really, if you just want a pretty, painted seaside town to explore? Head to Portofino and check out some of its surrounding towns too. Just as beautiful and much more relaxed, and really that’s what Italian life is all about!